 |
Office of Air and
Radiation (OAR),
Office of Radiation and Indoor Air (ORIA) (6609J)
402-K-00-008, July 2000
EPA Recommends:
-
If you are buying a home or selling your home, have it tested for
radon.
-
For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction features were
used and if the home has been tested.
-
Fix the home if the radon level is 4
PicoCuries per liter (pCi/L)
or higher.
-
Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many
cases, may be reduced.
-
Take steps to prevent device interference when conducting a radon
test.
|
An Adobe Acrobat PDF version of this document is also available [hmbuygud.pdf].
 |
| Based on information
contained in the National Academy of Sciences report, The Health Effects
of Exposure to Indoor Radon, radon is estimated to cause between 15,000
and 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year. Data on (non-radon) causes of
death are from Injury Facts, 1999 Edition, National Safety Council,
Itasca, IL. |
This Guide answers important questions about radon and lung
cancer risk. It also answers questions about testing and fixing for
anyone buying or selling a home.
Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive
gas.
You can't see radon. And you can't smell it or taste it. But it may be a
problem in your home.
Radon is estimated to cause many thousands of deaths each year. That's
because when you breathe air containing radon, you can get lung cancer. In
fact, the Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause
of lung cancer in the United States today. Only smoking causes more lung
cancer deaths. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk
of lung cancer is especially high.
|
National Academy of Sciences Report on Radon
In February 1998, the National Academy of Sciences (NAS) released
its report on radon and lung cancer, The Health Effects of Exposure
to Indoor Radon (the BEIR VI report). The NAS is an independent,
non-governmental, scientific organization. The NAS estimates that
radon causes between 15,000 and 22,000 lung cancer deaths each year in
the United States and that 12 percent of all lung cancer deaths are
linked to radon. The BEIR VI Committee (Biological Effects of
Ionizing Radiation) concluded that after smoking, radon is the second
leading cause of death due to lung cancer in the United States. |
You Should Test for Radon
Testing is the only way to know if you and
your family are at risk from radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend
testing all homes below the third floor for radon. EPA also recommends
testing in schools.
Testing is inexpensive and easy - it should only take a few minutes of your
time. Millions of Americans have already tested their homes for radon
You Can Fix a Radon Problem
Radon reduction systems work and they are
not too costly. Some radon reduction systems can reduce radon levels in your
home by up to 99%. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable
levels.
Radon is a radioactive gas. It comes from
the natural decay of uranium that is found in nearly all soils. It typically
moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through
cracks and other holes in the foundation. Your home traps radon inside,
where it can build up. Any home may have a radon problem. This means new and
old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without
basements.
Radon from soil gas is the main cause of radon problems. Sometimes radon
enters the home through well water (see "Radon in Water" below). In a small
number of homes, the building materials can give off radon, too. However,
building materials rarely cause radon problems by themselves.
RADON GETS IN THROUGH:
1. Cracks in solid floors
2. Construction joints
3. Cracks in walls
4. Gaps in suspended floors
5. Gaps around service pipes
6. Cavities inside walls
7. The water supply
Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to
have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). Elevated levels of radon
gas have been found in homes in your state. Contact your state radon
office for information about radon in your area.
Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from
radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the
third floor for radon.
Visit our
radon test kit & detector Product Catalog
You
cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood radon
measurements. Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the
neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home. Homes which are next
to each other can have different radon levels. Testing is the only way to
find out what your home's radon level is.
In some areas, companies may offer different types of radon service
agreements. Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both
testing and radon mitigation, if needed. Contact your state radon office to
find out if these are available in your state.
| Surgeon General of the United
States Health Advisory "Indoor radon gas is a national health
problem. Radon causes thousands of deaths each year. Millions of homes
have elevated radon levels. Most homes should be tested for radon. When
elevated levels are confirmed, the problem should be corrected." |
If you are thinking of selling your home and you have already tested
your home for radon, review the Radon Testing Checklist to make
sure that the test was done correctly. If so, provide your test results
to the buyer.
No matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a
new test especially if:
- The Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;
- The last test is not recent, e.g., within two years;
- You have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or
- The buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was
tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently
lived in.
A buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local government
requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.
Have a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your home
before putting it on the market. You should test in the lowest level of
the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest
level that you currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but
which a buyer could use for living space without renovations.
The radon test result is important information about your home's radon
level. Some states require radon measurement testers to follow a specific
testing protocol. If you do the test yourself, you should carefully
follow the testing protocol for your area or EPA's Radon Testing
Checklist. If you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect
yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.
You can determine a service provider's qualifications to perform radon
measurements or to mitigate your home in several ways. Check with your
state radon office. Many states require radon professionals to be
licensed, certified, or registered. Most states can provide you with a
list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business in the
state. In states that don't regulate radon services, ask the contractor
if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential. Such
programs usually provide members with a photo-ID card, which indicates
their qualifications and its expiration date. If in doubt, you should
check with their credentialing organization. Alternatively, ask the
contractor if they've successfully completed formal training appropriate
for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in radon measurement or radon
mitigation.
Back Home
If you are thinking of buying a home, you may decide to accept an
earlier test result from the seller, or ask the seller for a new test to
be conducted by a qualified radon tester. Before you accept the seller's
test, you should determine:
- The results of previous testing;
- Who conducted the previous test: the homeowner, a radon
professional, or some other person;
- Where in the home the previous test was taken, especially if you may
plan to live in a lower level of the home. For example, the test may
have been taken on the first floor. However, if you want to use the
basement as living space, test there; and
- What, if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in the
heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system have been made
to the house since the test was done. Such changes may affect radon
levels.
If you accept the seller's test, make sure that the test followed the
Radon Testing Checklist.
If you decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller as
soon as possible.
Make sure that a radon test is done as soon as possible. Consider
including provisions in the contract specifying:
- Where the test will be located;
- Who should conduct the test;
- What type of test to do;
- When to do the test;
- How the seller and the buyer will share the test results and test
costs (if necessary); and
- When radon mitigation measures will be taken and who will pay for
them.
Make sure that the test is done in the lowest level of the home
suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that you are going to
use as living space which is finished or does not require renovations
prior to use. A state or local radon official or qualified radon
tester can help you make some of these decisions.
If you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area of the home in
the future, a radon test should be taken before starting the project and
after the project is finished. Generally, it is less expensive to install
a radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather than
afterwards.
Radon-resistant techniques work. When installed properly and
completely, these simple and inexpensive passive techniques can help to
reduce radon levels. In addition, installing them at the time of
construction makes it easier to reduce radon levels further if the passive
techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4 pCi/L. Radon-resistant
techniques may also help to lower moisture levels and those of other
soil-gases. Radon-resistant techniques:
 |
Making Upgrading Easy: Even if built to be
radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon after
occupancy. If you have a test result of 4 pCi/L or more, a vent fan
can easily be added to the passive system to make it an active system
and further reduce radon levels. |
|
|
Are Cost-Effective: Building radon-resistant
features into the house during construction is easier and cheaper than
fixing a radon problem from scratch later. Let your builder know that
radon-resistant features are easy to install using common building
materials. |
|
|
Save Money: When installed properly and completely,
radon-resistant techniques can also make your home more energy
efficient and help you save on your energy costs. |
In a new home, the cost to install passive radon-resistant
features during construction is usually between $350 and $500. In some
areas, the cost may be as low as $100. A qualified mitigator will charge
about $300 to add a vent fan to a passive system, making it an active
system and further reducing radon levels. In an existing home, it
usually costs between $800 and $2,500 to install a radon mitigation
system.
Radon-resistant techniques (features) may vary for different
foundations and site requirements. If you're having a house built, you
can learn about EPA's Model Standards (and architectural drawings) and
explain the techniques to your builder. If your new house was built (or
will be built) to be radon-resistant, it will include these basic
elements:
- Gas-Permeable Layer: This layer is placed beneath the slab
or flooring system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the
house. In many cases, the material used is a 4-inch layer of clean
gravel. This gas-permeable layer is used only in homes with basement
and slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in homes with crawlspace
foundations.
- Plastic Sheeting: Plastic sheeting is placed on top of the
gas-permeable layer and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas
from entering the home. In crawl spaces, the sheeting (with seams
sealed) is placed directly over the crawlspace floor.
- Sealing and Caulking: All below-grade openings in the
foundation and walls are sealed to reduce soil gas entry into the
home.
- Vent Pipe: A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or other gas-tight
pipe) runs from the gas-permeable layer through the house to the roof,
to safely vent radon and other soil gases to the outside.
- Junction Boxes: An electrical junction box is included in
the attic to make the wiring and installation of a vent fan easier.
For example, you decide to activate the passive system because your
test result showed an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). A
separate junction box is placed in the living space to power the vent
fan alarm. An alarm is installed along with the vent fan to indicate
when the vent fan is not operating properly.
|
 |
Radon testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a radon
problem in your home.
Since you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed to
detect it. When you're ready to test your home, you can order a radon
test kit by mail from a qualified radon measurement services provider or
laboratory. You can also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home
inspector, who will use a radon device(s) suitable to your situation. The
most common types of radon testing devices are listed below.
Passive Devices
Passive radon testing devices do not
need power to function. The passive device group includes
alpha track
detectors, charcoal canisters,
charcoal liquid scintillation detectors,
and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of
different types of continuous monitors.
All are available at
http://www.testproducts.com/safecart. These devices are exposed to
the air in the home for a specified period of time and then sent to our
laboratory for analysis. Both short-term and long-term passive devices
are generally inexpensive. Some of these devices may have features that
offer more resistance to test interference or disturbance than other
passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of these devices to
measure the home's radon level.
Active Devices
Active radon testing devices require power to function. These include
continuous radon monitors and continuous working level monitors.
They continuously measure and record the amount of radon or its decay
products in the air. Many of these devices provide a report of this
information which can reveal any unusual or abnormal swings in the radon
level during the test period. A qualified tester can explain this report
to you. In addition, some of these devices are specifically designed to
deter and detect test interference. Some technically advanced active
devices offer anti-interference features. Although these tests may cost
more, they may ensure a more reliable result.
A state or local radon official can explain the differences between
devices and recommend the ones which are most appropriate for your needs
and expected testing conditions.
Make sure to use a radon measurement device from a qualified
laboratory. Certain precautions should be followed to avoid interference
during the test period. See the Radon Testing Checklist for more
information on how to get a reliable test result.
Radon Test Device Placement
EPA recommends that testing device(s) be placed in the lowest level
of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the
lowest level (such as a basement), which a buyer could use for living
space without renovations. The test should be conducted in a room to
be used regularly (like a family room, living room, playroom, den or
bedroom); do not test in a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or
hallway. Usually, the buyer decides where to locate the radon test,
based on their expected use of the home. A buyer and seller should
explicitly discuss and agree on the test location to avoid any
misunderstanding. Their decision should be clearly communicated to
the person performing the test. |
There is a potential for test interference in real estate transactions.
There are several ways to prevent or detect test interference:
- Use a test device that frequently records radon or decay product
levels to detect unusual swings;
- Employ a motion detector to determine whether the test device has
been moved or testing conditions have changed;
- Use a proximity detector to reveal the presence of people in the
room which may correlate to possible changes in radon levels during the
test;
- Record the barometric pressure to identify weather conditions which
may have affected the test;
- Record the temperature record to help assess whether doors and
windows have been opened;
- Apply tamper-proof seals to windows to ensure closed house
conditions; and
- Have the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement.
Home buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test provider
about the use of these precautions.
What’s the
difference between short-term and long-term testing?
Radon gas levels in a home are not the same every day.
Changes in the weather, how often windows and doors are opened and closed,
the type of air conditioning/heating systems you use, and your family's
lifestyle all contribute to the level of radon gas in your home each day. A
short-term test may show unusually high or low levels due to the weather and
activity in your home. A long-term test will average your exposure to radon
levels over a period of time, and experts agree that this gives a more
conclusive test result.
There Are Two General Ways To Test Your Home for Radon:
Because radon levels vary from day to day and season to season, a
short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your
year-round average radon level. However, if you need results quickly, a
short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix the home.
|
|
Short-Term Testing |
The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests
remain in your home from two days to 90 days, depending on the device.
There are two groups of devices which are more commonly used for
short-term testing. The passive device group includes
alpha track
detectors, charcoal canisters,
charcoal liquid scintillation detectors,
and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of
different types of continuous monitors.
| Whether you test for radon
yourself or hire a state-certified tester or a privately certified
tester, all radon tests should be taken for a minimum of 48 hours. A
longer period of testing is required for some devices. |
Visit our
radon test kit & detector Product Catalog
|
|
Long-Term Testing |
Long-term tests remain in your home for more than 90 days. Alpha
track, and electret ion chamber detectors are commonly used
for this type of testing. A long-term test will give you a reading that
is more likely to tell you your home's year-round average radon level
than a short-term test. If time permits (more than 90 days) long-term
tests can be used to confirm initial short-term results. When long-term
test results are 4 pCi/L or higher, EPA recommends fixing the home.
If you are testing in a real estate transaction and you need results
quickly, any of the following three options for short-term Tests are
acceptable in determining whether the home should be fixed. Any real
estate test for radon should include steps to prevent or detect device
interference with the test device.
|
When Choosing a Short-Term Testing Option...
There are trade-offs among the short-term testing options. Two
tests taken at the same time (simultaneous) would improve the
precision of this radon test. One test followed by another test
(sequential) would most likely give a better representation of the
seasonal average. Both active and passive devices may have features
which help to prevent test interference. Your state radon office can
help you decide which option is best. |
|
Short-Term Testing Options |
What to
do Next |
Passive:
Take two short-term tests at the same time in the same location for at
least 48 hours.
or
Take an initial short-term test for at least 48 hours. Immediately
upon completing the first test, do a second test using an identical
device in the same location as the first test. |
Fix the home if the average of two tests is 4 pCi/L or more.
Fix the home if the average of the two tests is 4 pCi/L or more. |
Active:
Test the home with a continuous monitor for at least 48 hours. |
Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more. |
If You Do the Test Yourself
 When
you are taking a short-term test, close windows and doors and keep them
closed, except for normal entry and exit. If you are taking a short-term
test lasting less than four days, be sure to:
- Close your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours before
beginning the test;
- Do not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four days during
severe storms or periods of high winds;
- Follow the testing instructions and record the start time and date;
- Place the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in a
location where it will not be disturbed and where it will be away from
drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls;
- Leave the test kit in place for as long as the test instructions
say; and
- Once you have finished the test, record the stop time and date,
reseal the package and return it immediately to the lab specified on the
package for analysis.
You should receive your test results within a few weeks. If you need
results quickly, you should find out how long results will take and, if
necessary, request expedited service.
|
|
If You Hire a Qualified Radon Tester |
In many cases, home buyers and sellers may decide to have the radon
test done by a qualified radon tester who knows the proper conditions,
test devices, and guidelines for obtaining a reliable radon test result.
They can also:
- Evaluate the home and recommend a testing approach designed to make
sure you get reliable results;
- Explain how proper conditions can be maintained during the radon
test;
- Emphasize to occupants of a home that a reliable test result depends
on their cooperation. Interference with, or disturbance of, the test or
closed-house conditions will invalidate the test result;
- Analyze the data and report measurement results; and
- Provide an independent test.
The average indoor radon level is estimated to be about 1.3 pCi/L;
roughly 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the outside air. The U.S.
Congress has set a long-term goal that indoor radon levels be no more than
outdoor levels. While this goal is not yet technologically achievable for
all homes, radon levels in many homes can be reduced to 2 pCi/L or
below.
|
Radon Test Results Reported in Two Ways
Your radon test results may be reported in either picoCuries per
liter of air (pCi/L) or working levels (WL). If your test result is in
pCi/L, EPA recommends you fix your home if your radon level is 4 pCi/L
or higher. If the test result is in WL, EPA recommends you fix the
home if the working level is 0.02 WL or higher. Some states require
WL results to be converted to pCi/L to minimize confusion. |
Sometimes short-term tests are less definitive about whether the home
is at or above 4 pCi/L; particularly when the results are close to 4
pCi/L. For example, if the average of two short-term tests is 4.1 pCi/L,
there is about a 50% chance that the year-round average is somewhat below
4 pCi/L.
However, EPA believes that any radon exposure carries some risk; no
level of radon is safe. Even radon levels below 4 pCi/L pose some risk.
You can reduce your risk of lung cancer by lowering your radon level.
As with other environmental pollutants, there is some uncertainty
about the magnitude of radon health risks. However, we know more about
radon risks than risks from most other cancer-causing substances. This is
because estimates of radon risks are based on data from human studies
(underground miners). Additional studies on more typical populations are
under way.
Your radon measurement will give you an idea of your risk of getting
lung cancer from radon. Your chances of getting lung cancer from radon
depend mostly on:
- Your home's radon level;
- The amount of time you spend in your home; and
- Whether you are a smoker or have ever smoked.
Smoking combined with radon is an especially serious health risk. If
you smoke or are a former smoker, the presence of radon greatly increases
your risk of lung cancer. If you stop smoking now and lower the radon
level in your house, you will reduce your lung cancer risk.
Based on information contained in the National Academy of Sciences 1998
report, The Health Effects of Exposure to Indoor Radon, your radon
risk may be somewhat higher than shown; especially if you have never
smoked. It's never too late to reduce your risk to lung cancer. Don't
wait to test and fix a radon problem. If you are a smoker, stop smoking.
Radon Risk Comparison Charts
[En Español]
It's never too late to reduce your risk of lung cancer.
Don't wait to test and fix a radon problem.
If you are a smoker, stop smoking.
Radon Risk If You
Smoke
|
Radon Level |
If 1,000 people
who smoked were exposed to this level over a lifetime*... |
The risk of
cancer from radon exposure compares to**... |
WHAT TO DO:
Stop smoking and... |
| 20 pCi/L |
About 260 people could get
lung cancer |
250 times the risk of drowning |
Fix your home |
| 10 pCi/L |
About 150 people could get
lung cancer |
200 times the risk of dying in
a home fire |
Fix your home |
| 8 pCi/L |
About 120 people could get
lung cancer |
30 times the risk of dying in
a fall |
Fix your home |
| 4 pCi/L |
About 62 people could get lung
cancer |
5 times the risk of dying in a
car crash |
Fix your home |
| 2 pCi/L |
About 32 people could get lung
cancer |
6 times the risk of dying from
poison |
Consider fixing between 2 and
4 pCi/L |
| 1.3 pCi/L |
About 20 people could get lung
cancer |
(Average indoor radon level) |
(Reducing radon
levels below 2 pCi/L is difficult.) |
| 0.4 pCi/L |
About 3 people could get lung
cancer |
(Average outdoor radon level) |
Note: If
you are a former smoker, your risk may be lower.
pCi/L (pico Curies per Liter)
* Lifetime risk of lung cancer deaths from EPA Assessment of
Risks from Radon in Homes (EPA 402-R-03-003).
** Comparison data calculated using the Centers for Disease
Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury
Prevention and Control Reports. |
Radon
Risk If You've Never Smoked
|
Radon Level |
If 1,000 people
who never smoked were exposed to this level over a lifetime*... |
The risk of
cancer from radon exposure compares to**... |
WHAT TO DO: |
| 20 pCi/L |
About 36 people could get lung
cancer |
35 times the risk of drowning |
Fix your home |
| 10 pCi/L |
About 18 people could get lung
cancer |
20 times the risk of dying in
a home fire |
Fix your home |
| 8 pCi/L |
About 15 people could get lung
cancer |
4 times the risk of dying in a
fall |
Fix your home |
| 4 pCi/L |
About 7 people could get lung
cancer |
The risk of dying in a car
crash |
Fix your home |
| 2 pCi/L |
About 4 person could get lung
cancer |
The risk of dying from poison |
Consider fixing between 2 and
4 pCi/L |
| 1.3 pCi/L |
About 2 people could get lung
cancer |
(Average indoor radon level) |
(Reducing radon
levels below
2 pCi/L is difficult.) |
| 0.4 pCi/L |
|
(Average outdoor radon level) |
Note: If you are a
former smoker, your risk may be higher.
pCi/L (pico Curies per Liter)
* Lifetime risk of lung cancer deaths from EPA Assessment of
Risks from Radon in Homes (EPA 402-R-03-003).
** Comparison data calculated using the Centers for Disease
Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury
Prevention and Control Reports. |
|
Back Home
For reliable test results, follow this Radon Testing Checklist
carefully. Testing for radon is not complicated. Improper testing may
yield inaccurate results and require another test. Disturbing or
interfering with the test device, or with closed-house conditions, may
invalidate the test results and is illegal in some states. If the seller
or qualified tester cannot confirm that all items have been completed,
take another test.
|
|
Before Conducting a Radon Test: |
- Notify the occupants of the importance of proper testing conditions.
Give the occupants written instructions or a copy of this Guide and
explain the directions carefully.
- Conduct the radon test for a minimum of 48 hours; some test devices
have a minimum exposure time greater than 48 hours.
- When doing a short-term test ranging from 2-4 days, it is important
to maintain closed-house conditions for at least 12 hours before the
beginning of the test and during the entire test period.
- When doing a short-term test ranging from 4-7 days, EPA recommends
that closed-house conditions be maintained.
- If you conduct the test yourself, use a qualified radon measurement
device and follow the laboratory's instructions. Your state may be able
to provide you with a list of do-it-yourself test devices available from
qualified laboratories.
- If you hire someone to do the test, hire only a qualified
individual. Some states issue photo identification (ID) cards; ask to
see it. The tester's ID number, if available, should be included or
noted in the test report.
- The test should include method(s) to prevent or detect interference
with testing conditions or with the testing device itself.
- If the house has an active radon-reduction system, make sure the
vent fan is operating properly. If the fan is not operating properly,
have it (or ask to have it) repaired and then test.
| Closed-house conditions means keeping all windows closed, keeping
doors closed except for normal entry and exit, and not operating fans
or other machines which bring in air from outside. Fans that are part
of a radon-reduction system or small exhaust fans operating for only
short periods of time may run during the test. |
|
|
During a Radon Test: |
- Maintain closed-house conditions during he entire time of a short
term test, especially for tests shorter than one week in length.
- Operate the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the
test. For tests lasting less than one week, operate only
air-conditioning units which recirculate interior air.
- Do not disturb the test device at any time during the test.
- If a radon-reduction system is in place, make sure the system is
working properly and will be in operation during the entire radon test.
|
|
After a Radon Test: |
- If you conduct the test yourself, be sure to promptly return the
test device to the laboratory. Be sure to complete the required
information, including start and stop times, test location, etc.
- If an elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a qualified
radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level. EPA
recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or
more.
- Be sure that you or the radon tester can demonstrate or provide
information to ensure that the testing conditions were not violated
during the testing period.
EPA recommends that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon
levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher. It is better to
correct a radon problem before placing your home on the market because
then you have more time to address a radon problem.
If elevated levels are found during the real estate transaction, the
buyer and seller should discuss the timing and costs of the radon
reduction. The cost of making repairs to reduce radon levels depends on
how your home was built and other factors. Most homes can be fixed for
about the same cost as other common home repairs, like painting or having
a new hot water heater installed. The average cost for a contractor to
lower radon levels in a home can range from $800 to about $2,500.
A variety of methods can be used to reduce radon in homes. Sealing
cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most
approaches to radon reduction. EPA does not recommend the use of
sealing alone to limit radon entry. Sealing alone has not been shown
to lower radon levels significantly or consistently.
In most cases, a system with a vent pipe(s) and fan(s) is used to
reduce radon. These "sub-slab depressurization" systems do not require
major changes to your home. Similar systems can also be installed in homes
with crawl space. These systems prevent radon gas from entering the home
from below the concrete floor and from outside the foundation. Radon
mitigation contractors may use other methods that may also work in your
home. The right system depends on the design of your home and other
factors.
Techniques for reducing radon are discussed in EPA's
"Consumer's
Guide to Radon Reduction." As with any other household appliance,
there are costs associated with the operation of the radon-reduction
system.
Radon and home renovations
If you are planning any major renovations, such as converting an
unfinished basement area into living space, it is especially important
to test the area for radon before you begin.
If your test results indicate an elevated radon level,
radon-resistant techniques can be inexpensively included as part of
the renovation. Major renovations can change the level of radon in any
home. Test again after the work is completed. |
You should also test your home again after it is fixed to be sure that
radon levels have been reduced. If your living patterns change and you
begin occupying a lower level of your home (such as a basement) you should
retest your home on that level. In addition, it is a good idea to retest
your home sometime in the future to be sure radon levels remain low.
Select a qualified radon-reduction contractor to reduce the radon
levels in your home. Any mitigation measures taken or system installed in
your home must conform to your state's regulations. In states without
regulations covering mitigation, the system should conform to EPA's
Radon
Mitigation Standards.
EPA recommends that the mitigation contractor review the radon
measurement results before beginning and radon-reduction work. Test again
after the radon mitigation work has been completed to confirm that
previous elevated levels have been reduced.
A qualified radon-reduction (mitigation) contractor should be able to:
- Review testing guidelines and measurement results, and determine if
additional measurements are needed;
- Evaluate the radon problem and provide you with a detailed, written
proposal on how radon levels will be lowered;
- Design a radon-reduction system;
- Install the system according to EPA standards, or state or local
codes; and
- Make sure the finished system effectively reduces radon levels to
acceptable levels.
Choose a radon mitigation contractor to fix your radon problem just as
you would for any other home repair. You may want to get more than one
estimate, ask for and check their references. Make sure the person you
hire is qualified to install a mitigation system. Some states regulate or
certify radon mitigation services providers.
Be aware that a potential conflict of interest exists if the same
person or firm performs the testing and installs the mitigation system.
Some states may require the homeowner to sign a waiver in such cases. If
the same person or firm does the testing and mitigation, make sure the
testing is done in accordance with the Radon Testing
Checklist. Contact your state radon office for more information.
The radon in your home's indoor air can come from two sources, the soil
or your water supply. Compared to radon entering your home through water,
radon entering your home through soil is a much larger risk. If you've
tested for radon in air and have elevated radon levels and your water
comes from a private well, have your water tested. The devices and
procedures for testing your home's water supply are different from those
used for measuring radon in air.
The radon in your water supply poses an inhalation risk and an
ingestion risk. Research has shown that your risk of lung cancer from
breathing radon in air is much larger than your risk of stomach cancer
from swallowing water with radon in it. Most of your risk from radon in
water comes from radon released into the air when water is used for
showering and other household purposes.
Radon in your home's water in not usually a problem when its source is
surface water. A radon in water problem is more likely when its source is
ground water, e.g., a private well or a public water supply system that
uses ground water. Some public water systems treat their water to reduce
radon levels before it is delivered to your home. If you are concerned
that radon may be entering your home through the water and your water
comes from a public water supply, contact your water supplier.
 If
you've tested your private well and have a radon in water problem, it can
be fixed. Your home's water supply can be treated in one of two ways.
Point-of-entry treatment can effectively remove radon from the water
before it enters your home. Point-of-entry treatment usually employs
either granular activated carbon (GAC) filters or aeration devices. While
GAC filters usually cost less than aeration devices, filters can collect
radioactivity and may require a special method of disposal. Point-of-use
treatment devices remove radon from your water at the tap, but only treat
a small portion of the water you use, e.g., the water you drink.
Point-of-use devices are not effective in reducing the risk from breathing
radon released into the air from all water used in the home.
|
b.
How To Lower The Radon Level In Your Home
c.
Selecting a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor
National Safety Products donates a portion of all purchases to
the American Lung Association. 
Radon gas destroys lives! As
the second leading cause of lung cancer, radon kills thousands every year.
A substance to which no one is immune!
Radon exists worldwide. Without the proper precautions, this
radioactive gas can destroy your family. Now there is an easy and
affordable way to test
for dangerous levels of radon gas. 
